Our first visit to Austerlitz in 1998 had been over shadowed by the poor weather, but it was such an interesting battlefield that we promised we would return again and “do” it properly. After our earlier visit we felt that a whole week would be too long, so we decided to combine it with a visit to Aspern-Essling and Wagram.
We decided that we would fly to Vienna and hire a car. We would then spend three days exploring Aspern-Essling and Wagram, drive to Austerlitz and spend a further three days there.
We knew Austerlitz very well, and could plan the three days with ease. Austerlitz is a compact battlefield, and we had already decided that we would stay at the Post House which is right in the middle of the battlefield.
But we had never been to Aspern or Wagram, and the area to be covered looked pretty large on the map. We wanted to explore Aspern and Essling plus the whole of Lobau Island.
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From Aspern to Wagram is about ten miles. The battlefield from Wagram to Markgrafneusiedlung about four miles. We could use the car, but we decided that cycles would be best. We could use the mass of poor quality farm tracks, stop where we wanted and go as slow as we liked.
In early 2002 I contacted the Vienna tourist information office, who proved very helpful. I wanted a hotel close to Aspern who could arrange cycle hire. I also wanted a detailed map of the area. They provided contacts for both.
Our hotel was in Aspern itself, a short walk from the famous church which featured in the fighting. They specialized in cycling holidays, so hire would be no problem.
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At 0725 on 20 July 2002 we departed Heathrow for Vienna and the start of our last battlefield tour.
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