Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Aspern and Essling

We were fortunate to arrive at Aspern on a Saturday, because we discovered that the small museum beside the Aspern church was only open on the Sunday morning. We were the first visitors when it opened at 10am. There is only a small collection, but the building itself is all of the original church still remaining. The rest of the church was rebuilt after the battle.

Having crossed the river Danube, via Lobau Island, the French occupied Aspern. They were surprised by the strength and determination of the Austrian attack. The village changed hands a number of times during the battle, and the church was the scene of the most desperate fighting.

We had allowed an hour for the museum, which was plenty of time. After our visit we planned to visit Lobau Island again, this time on our bikes, and explore some more. As we left we thanked the lady at the desk, and asked if there was anything else in the area relating to the battle that we should visit. She told us that there was a new exhibition at Essling granary, but it was only open Sunday morning.

Essling is about two miles from Aspern, and it was already 11am. We did not know the exact location of the granary, but I had this photo with me. We cycled as fast as we could along the modern road to Essling. We could see no sign of the granary, but found it by showing the photo and asking for directions. It is on the outskirts of the village, and we might well have missed it had we not known what it looked like, and had good directions to get there. It was sad to find it in such a run down condition.

The Granary was to Essling what the church was to Aspern. It was held by the French throughout the battle, though it was attacked time and again by the Austrians.

We arrived just before noon, and the old chap at the door seemed none too pleased to have visitors arriving so late. We were the only ones there, and I suspect that he wanted to lock up and get home for his Sunday lunch. To be honest there was not much to see inside the building, except for this large diorama. The whole building looked very run down, though perhaps now there would be an attempt to renovate it. Unfortunately we could not communicate with the old boy, other than in broken German. And he was not at all interested in small talk. It was not possible to see any of the Granary, other than the room where the diorama was laid out. It was not even possible to walk around the outside. However the large door looked very similar to paintings I have seen, and was obviously very old and battered. So it might well have been the same.

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