Wagram

We had allowed a whole day to explore the main battlefield of Wagram. We would cycle to Markgrafneusiedlung, which was the left of the Austrian battle line. From here we would follow the ridge to Deutsch Wagram, the Austrian right flank. Both towns saw a lot of fighting, and we wanted to have plenty of time to explore them properly There is a road between the two towns, and this was the main Austrian defensive line.

Time permitting we would visit Aderklaa and Breitenlee on the way back to Aspern.

It proved a good plan, and we had allowed sufficient time. What I had not allowed for was how painful cycling could be if you do too much too soon. We did not have proper cycling clothing, and I had not ridden a bike for many years. I was relieved to find that I could handle the bike ok, or at least I did not fall off. However I was saddle sore within an hour and it got more and more painful as the day wore on. I am not sure how long the whole route way, but it must have been about 20 miles. I could hardly walk by the time we reached Deutsch Wagram, and we still had to cycle back to Aspern!

Davout’s horse is shot during III corps attack on Markgrafneusiedl. The tower dominates the area, as it does now. This whole area is very flat, and the tower can be seen from almost any part of the battlefield.

We had not problem finding either Markgrafneusiedl or the tower. It was not possible to climb the tower, and there were not the magnificent views I had hoped for. So after a short stop we set off for Deutsch Wagram. There is a small ridge to the north of the road, where the Austrian line stood, and this provided good views of the ground the French advanced over. Wagram itself was also disappointing, very modern and ordinary. There was a small museum, but not as interesting as either Aspern or Essling.

The whole area reminded me very much of Salisbury Plain.